Sunday, 24 January 2016

From Gerroa to Genoa (Wet days, warm people, dangerous roads and Dark Emu visitations)

We left Warm Showers Claire, who was busy hosting a number of sodden cycle tourers, such as this jolly soloist Angus,


and rode out of Gerroa to begin our coastal descent. In Nowra we bumped into more fellow pedalist comrades who were riding around the world from France to raise awareness about climate change,


before our book event at Dean Swift ABC book shop, where we spoke to the possibilities of climate changed economies and societies of regard.


More rain and more barely ripe public stonefruit in southern Nowra,


and we were off on another wet leg,


to Huskisson, where booksellers Noela and Jill greeted us for a little signing event,


and Jill and her man David


put us up for the night, avoiding another soaking from the tricky gods of acummulating clouds. We'd had enough of things by now. Dangerous roads, anti-cyclist drivers, unrelenting rains. So we mapped out the alternative (option 2 Huskisson back to Albury),


and even though we thought it would be easier to cancel the remains of the tour and ride back to Nowra, train to Sydney, train to Goulbourn, ride to Albury, train to Melbourne, train to Woodend and ride the last 40 kms home, we didn't. Something in us wanted to see this through.

Our decision was confirmed by this sweet family, who had read about us in their local paper a year earlier, got in touch and invited us to stay a night.


Ah, the comfort of strangers! Thanks Jo, Bren, Lucinda, Sam and Eliza. Even more gifts awaited us when we returned to one of our favorite guerilla camping spots south of Mollymook.


Last year we ate limpets and speared fish on coals at Collers Beach. This year Zero caught us a big rabbit,


and Patrick speared another bag of fish, including this leatherjacket and red mowrang for one of our meals.


We poached the rabbit in the billy for 25 mins and the flesh just slipped off the bones onto our fingers and into our mouths. For we hungry locavores it was a near perfect moment.


Living on Collers Beach for a few days further nourished our decision to complete this tour.


Further south in Batemans Bay we bumped into Justine and Pat, who like us were perfecting the practice of very very slow travel. When we all met up at about 3pm one afternoon, they'd travelled a whooping 2 kms for the day. We congratulated their efforts. It's a momentous achievement to go that slow in such a savagely fast world.


While they headed north, we trundled several kms down the road to Batehaven and set up camp on some marginal land beside a little creek inlet.


On the gentler coast road to Moruya we stopped to chat to northbound rider Rapha el, a French tourist.


We picked up supplies from the wonderful bulk wholefoods store when we arrived in town, and rode on as our event had been cancelled at Moruya Books due to a boating accident in the business. We pedalled on to Old Mill Road Biofarm and kept the boating accidents at bay while we cooled down in Kirsti, Marlin, Pickle and Fraser's luscious dam,


before feasting with this awesome lot — the brains and brawn behind one of the best market gardens on the south coast. As you can imagine the food was exceptional, cooked up by French chefs Nina and Elsa, who may well come and stay with us in Daylesford.


Southwards we rode, on and on our legs rotating, water in litres emptied down our throats, making the brief transit through our varied metabolisms out onto our clothes to transform into what we call cyclist stench. We stayed with this lovely family in Narooma (thanks Barry, Jimmie, Goldy and Em!),



rode on to Tilba,


with the kind promise of a lift to avoid the death trap 10 kms north of Cobargo where Meg and Woody had a near miss thirteen months earlier on our big trip. The kind offer came from Ronnie and her super family of Norris's, where we got to spend a few days, sit out more rain, swim with them at Bermagui, drink real cows milk and speak on air to one of our favourite ABC presenters, Ian Campbell.


When the sun poked through we hightailed it to Bega, our bikes hitching a ride with Ronnie's sweet folks in an empty trailer that was predestined for the southern coastal city, and climbed 10 kms west to Autumn Farm to stay with Annie and Genevieve and their kids Oscar and Olive (AKA Jo). They cooked us a beautiful meal in their stunning radical homemakers' kitchen.


The next day we were greeted by 45 enthusiastic Bega-ites who came to our foraging workshop and/or our book event at the wonderful Candelo Books. All the crazy summer traffic, physical fatigue and rain was rendered totally worth it by this enthusiatic mob.


The Princes Highway is a national road with many signs warning drivers of oncoming petrol stops, beach spots, drowsy driving, narrow bridges, overtaking lanes and wildlife. The highway provides, more or less, a safe lane for both northbound and southbound cars and trucks. But despite the daily use of this road by cyclists, almost nothing appears that aids our safety. This is what a typical lane looks like for a cyclist.


We're supposed to stick between the dangerous loose gravelly bit and the far left white line (intersecting on Zero's head in the photo). Now marry the above image with this one below and you'll get a fairly accurate assessment of just how much work there is to do to create safe transit ways for non-polluters in Australia.


Respite from the terror of this highway was found once more when we stopped in to visit Dale and Jenni in Eden again.


These two lovelies put us up last time we rode through Eden. They cooked up a beautiful feast of their home-produced chicken and veggies,


and the next morning Dale offered to drop us 25 kms down the highway where he had to drive to work.


Despite all the generous and wonderful people on the South Coast we didn't enjoy cycling down this highway on the first big trip. And this time has been little different with few opportunities to get onto quieter roads, so getting to the Victorian border signalled a kind of home coming, a kind of relief.


About four months ago, before we left on our tour, Patrick had contacted Bruce Pascoe to see whether we could visit him at Gipsy Point near Mallacoota. Bruce's book Dark Emu is a remarkable work of Australian history written by an Aboriginal writer concerning the profound and little known agrarianism that existed in Australia pre-colonisation. His book opens the door to a completely alternative history. We spoke in his nursery,


where he is growing yam daisies (murnongs), which were once a big part of the Aboriginal economies of regard in south-temperate Australia pre 1788. He gave us some seed to plant out in April. Dr Beth Gott, an ethnobotanist from Monash University, claims that a murnong tuber has nearly 10 times the nutrient properties of a potato and was an important part of the health of Aboriginal people.


It was in Mallacoota, Gipsy Point and Genoa that we hooked up with our friends Maya and James, who came with us to meet Bruce and his partner Lyn. Bruce offered us his boat to go fishing in and we cruised the gentle waters of the Genoa River, fishing for tailor, speaking of our river loves without, of course, the use of a motor.


We hope, Dear Reader, that whatever propels you forward into your days this year is just as enjoyable, thrilling, frightening and vital as what has been casting us forward. Thank you for accompanying us on this leg of our journey.

7 comments:

  1. can you sniff home from there yet?

    xxxx

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    1. Can smell home now Ronnie, and there's rain about our hills apparently. Woohoo! Much love xx

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  2. Sorry to hear about your not so enjoyable riding on the south coast of NSW. I rode the same (but missed Bega, went Tathra) route last year in February, it wasn't too busy perhaps as it was during the school term... I went past Eden on Saturday, so logging trucks weren't much of an issue as I was warned... a shoulder on the road side is definitely needed. All the best for the rest of your journey! It's a lovely part of the country!

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    1. Thanks Julian, glad to hear of your route via Tathra. We also would have liked to travel to Bombala to Bairnsdale (missing much of the A1), but we wanted to visit Bruce at Mallacoota. We got off the A1 just south of Bellbird River and bypassed to Cape Conran and Marlo. That was a great alt route to Orbost and again missing much of the danger, at least for a short while. The shoulder on the Bruthen road between Nowa Nowa and Bairnsdale was so bloody good. It amazed us that a C road cld be so bike friendly and an A road so bike dangerous. Let us know when next you travel and whether you have a blog or some such.

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  3. Congrats on making it onto http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com.au/ my two favourite cycling bloggers aligning is a bit of a buzz. p.s. if "smug" is the worst he can do you're doing pretty well :-)

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    1. Hey, thanks for the heads up RB. What a cheeky monkey. If we lived in NYC we'd prob feel that fucked up about things too, poor dude. Check in again.

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